Why choose native trees and plants

  • They attract beneficial native insects, which in turn will attract native birds and other wildlife
  • They create ‘stopover’ habitat for more than 120 species of migratory birds
  • They restore biodiversity and allow the natural ecosystem to function without interruption
  • They benefit the local food web
  • They require less water and maintenance because they are adapted to our environment
  • They support native pollinators
  • They are not invasive, unlike many non-native species
  • They generally live longer, storing more carbon dioxide

 

Planting and caring for your native tree

 

  • Plant your tree as soon as possible
  • For balled and burlapped trees:
    • Dig a hole no deeper than the root ball but slightly wider
    • Once the depth is right, cut or untie and remove twine
    • Untie the burlap and tuck it down in the extra space at the sides of the planting hole Don’t remove the burlap.
  • For potted trees:
    • Remove the tree from the pot
    • Prune the roots to ensure they grow straight
  • For bare root trees
    • Ensure the root flare (the swollen area between stem and roots) is below the ground
    • Feather out roots to encourage natural root structure. Long roots should be accommodated by trenching. Don’t cut back long feeder roots.
    • Stake trees in areas exposed to high winds. Use soft materials such as fabric, rubber hose or bungee cord in contact with trunk. Tie loosely. Remove staking after first or second growing season
    • If using mulch, keep it back from the trunk to allow air movement
  • Prior to backfilling the hole, break up the soil until crumbly. At this point, you may add triple mix or composted organic matter. Mix well with native soil.
  • Gently feather the crumbly soil around and under the roots in a natural position. Use your hands to pack soil around roots
  • Check that depth is right. Hold the trunk in one hand to keep it straight and use your feet to pack the soil and eliminate air pockets.
  • Use extra soil or sod to create a low rim at the edge of the planting hole, to prevent water from running away from the tree
  • Water each tree until the water pools on the surface, let it soak in, and then water again until pooling.
  • Depending on soil texture and drainage, trees require one to three inches of rainfall per week.
  • One good soaking per week is better than frequent light watering. A five-gallon pail will deliver approximately one inch of water to one square yard.
  • More frequent watering will be required on rapidly drained sandy or gravelling soils. Less water will be required on poorly drained clay soil.
  • Let your trees settle in before adding any fertilizer. Trees do not usually require fertilizer for good growth in our soils, but a slow release fertilizer may be considered one year or more following transplanting.